Vester/Saehan built Squiers normally have decent necks and plywood bodies although they don't sound bad for plywood. If you paid less than $100 and it is in good shape then you got a good deal. So, according to the wiki entry, you are entirely correct on your guess. Some early 90's examples held a serial number with the prefix M followed by 7 numerals, featured the a high gloss maple neck with a slimmer 40mm body made from plywood."
There were also Korean Squier serials with no serial number prefix and 6 or 7 numbers and the first number is the year. The first number following the serial number prefix is the year. S = Samick, E = Young Chang, E letter serial numbers were used on Young Chang's Fenix brand guitars. S/E: The S and E serial number prefix Korean Squiers are from the late 1980s/early 1990s. KC and KV serial number prefixes are usually used on Crafted in Korea Squiers. * "KV97" = made by Saehan(Sunghan) in 1997. KC/KV: KC (Korean Cor-Tek (Cort)) and KV (Korean Saehan(Sunghan)), the serial number prefix is followed by a 2 number year.
* "VN5" = made by Saehan(Sunghan) in 1995. * "CN5" = made by Cor-Tek (Cort) in 1995. Still, get a setup and have the fretwork checked out.Squier - Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaĬN/VN: C = Cor-Tek (Cort), V = Saehan(Sunghan), S was already taken by Samick so Saehan(Sunghan) used V instead (Saehan(Sunghan) made the Vester guitars), N = Nineties (1990s), the first number following the serial number prefix is the year. +1 a used MIM Fender can be around that same price and would be a better long term player (chunkier neck) as players eventually want a different headstock logo than Squier. Can you find one of these inexpensively? Like under $75? Same I'd replace the control harness parts and leave the stock pickups. Indonesian made Squiers from the last few years are really quite good. Get a pro setup (if not getting a fret level). Often a fret level will make any guitar play like a Custom Shop (or at the level of the guitar tech). This will run around $100 (but includes a $50 setup). Use a fret rocker on the frets to see if a benefit from a fret level. If you upgrade the controls you don't need to upgrade the pickups. Pickups will be fine, make sure to set heights by ear, often lower is better. If you plan on playing it, the pots, switch, and jack should all be replaced (lift out the original harness complete and put in new wire and parts, retain the original harness to replace later if you sell and someone wants 'vintage'). MIKs from that era were often built with laminated boards like 'plywood' if that matters to you (not an issue for me, except resale) - some players get needlessly frightened like kids at a haunted house when they see plywood and ceramic magnets.
Don't buy it just because it's Vintage/Old.
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